How to Get Your Armiger Warglaive Knights Ready for Battle… Quickly

Armiger Skulls group front parts2

I’m going to dive right into this because more than a few people have asked how I got these up and running so quickly and if I got any sleep!

So I’m going to show you how I got these up and running quickly, but still kept them in a state where I can add more detail, battle damage, weathering, etc.

Forgebane article

They’re an easy kit to assemble, and magnets do work wonders.

Assembly: When putting them together consider putting magnets in the joints for future kits. I used magnets I already had so I was very lucky….  measurements look to be about 5 mm diameter by about 1 mm deep. You could go deeper but the upper arm will show more magnet than mine. The 5mm is the important part. It fits in the weapon housing during assembly like a glove. (In the picture above you can see the magnets at the elbow sockets, and the others are contained in the weapon housing itself. 

Forgebane article Magnet blowup

A Magnetized Forgeworld, is always attractive. (groan)

So we’ve covered assembly basics… let’s assume a colour scheme and get these guys done.

Painting Your Assembled Armiger Warglaive:


Painting is far easier with a good primer.

This is the easy part. When you’ve settled on a scheme you like, clean the larger sections, and leave the smaller sections on the sprue.

  1. Use of a coloured Primer is HUGE. The GW ones are certainly fine, but for the record the red I chose here comes from the Army Painter line.
  2. I used a Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade “GLOSS”. The Gloss is very important as it will find the recesses a little better than a straight wash, plus the Gloss tends to discolour your base colours less.
  3. Watch the gloss dry. If you’ve not done this a lot, trust me a simple Q-tip is your best friend here. Just keep an eye on this stuff, and as you note larger deposits of the Gloss settling in a pool, dab the Q-tip in it to reduce the excess pooling.



  1. We’re basically repeating the base colour process. Here I did use GW’s Leadbelcher Spray Primer. It’s really one of my favorite metallic sprays; it just sits nicely on larger flat surfaces and is easy to work on top of.
  2. As soon as this is dry I went over it liberally with a heavy mix of Agrax Earthshade Wash and Nuln Oil Wash. (Note these are washes, and not Glosses. I don’t want the metallics to look brand new. We definitely prefer a grimier look, and the mix of brown and black washes will bring that bright tone down a few notches. I actually applied two coats.


To show the difference: Specimen A on the left has had one coat of our concoction. Specimen B on the Right looks right off the assembly line. This is no good for War in the 41st Millennium, as it denotes inexperience and lack of ability to get things done!


Dirty and Dinged up = Good at killin’ stuff!

3. Finally with the metallics we are going to add a quick dry brush of Dry Necron Compound. I love this stuff in this situation. This adds contrast between dirty metals, and edges which have been scraped, or shot at… the contrast helps make the model pop out. The model on the left had had Necron Compound applied, the model on the right is after two applications of our shade mix.


Back to Mars..

With our metallics done it’s time for a quick revisit to the panels on the walker that would be the same red as ones we sprayed on the sprue. Wash them as well (Agrax GLOSS) and let them dry.


Let’s get this Mars Deathbot rolling….

While those red panels are drying, let’s grab a heavy metallic paint with lots of pigment, and do the trim on those body panels we sprayed earlier. (HINT: You can make tiny mistakes here for the sake of speed. We will go back with Nuln Oil and ‘trace’ the metallics which does a few things for us including hiding mistakes!)


And once that part is dry, we can start gluing the panels on and…. we’re starting to look like a mean war machine from Mars. We’re in the homestretch now.



Details are up to you really. I will say for an extra step I grabbed the airbrush and I popped out the red paneling by hitting them with a brighter red, but you don’t have to do this.

In this stage I decided to put some bronze colours on some metallics. I decided to detail the lenses, and put some energy coils on the blades (Cawl is big on energy coils!) I also put some chemical burn on the Melta-spear weapons.

Aside from some personalization of the carapace, you are pretty much ready to go. Glue them on the base, and go wreck some face!


And just like that we’re ready to kick some Imperium hatin’ Heretics to the curb. Keep in mind when the rules come out we’ve left the decals off, and could even create our own Knight House as a result.

All said, these 4 models took me about a week of evenings after work to complete. I hope this helps you in some way.


Leave a Reply